Cleansing: ifs and buts

Whenever blogs, magazines, and even docters and your friends talk about skin, they typically start by saying that "the most important step is cleansing". But what is cleansing? Is a quick swipe with a make-up removal wipe enough, or should you scrub everyday? Well, neither...

For starters, it's absolutely true that cleansing is the single most important part of a routine. Simply because it is the best way to prep your skin for what follows: all those expensive serums and creams can't do their jobs if your skin is still clogged with whatever has accumulated on it during the day.


There should be a big difference between a morning and evening cleansing routine, since you don't wear make-up and SPF (assuming you properly removed those the night before ;) ). In the morning, a light cleanse is sufficient. So yes, do cleanse in the morning too! You sweat during the night and a splash of water is not going to help there (water can't trap oil and dirt molecules like cleansing product can). I typically use a cleanser with some "zing" or "fire" to it in the morning, so that my skin is fully awake and refreshed. My current favorites: the Avene Cleanance Cleansing Gel, which is great if you have oily skin, and the Tata Harper Regenerating Cleanser, which has tiny exfoliating particles and really wakes you up.

At the end of your day, i.e. when you get home, the best is to cleanse your face as soon as possible and give it time to absorb any products before going to sleep. I'm huge advocate of double-cleansing: one cleanse to thoroughly remove make-up and SPF and a second one to actually cleanse your skin.

Another thing on the mus-have cleansing list: washcloths - in large quantities, as you should use a different every day. Splashing your soapy face with water is not that efficient in removing all the grime. On top of that, the washcloth gently exfoliates the skin, already prepping it for products to come. Even Kate Middleton is a fan...

My first evening cleanse is typically an oil or balm formula. Very often, people with oily or combination skin steer clear from these, while that is exactly what they shouldn't do. Oil attracts oil, so there's really nothing better. Also, the feeling of massaging a great smelling oil on your skin is just luxurious. One caveat: stay away mineral oil! This cheap ingredient will clog your pores. Some of my lush, all-time, mineral oil-free favorites: Shu Uemura Ultime8 Sublime Beauty Cleansing Oil (love the texture of this one), Emma Hardie Moringa Cleansing Balm (the smell!!) and Clinique Take The Day Off Cleansing Balm (doesn't smell, reasonably priced and does a perfect job).

The second cleanse is a gel or milk (not a foam - foam usually contains surfectants that strip and aggress your skin's top layer). In principle, you could use the same product as for your morning cleanse, but if budget is not an issue / if you like to pamper yourself / if you're a skincare addict / all of the above, a slightly more gentle formula is perfect. I recently started using this Avene one and really love it, though nothing beats this Biologique Recherche number!

Finally: cleansing wipes & micellar water? No no no. Really, no. They don't do a good job. I would say if you crash in bed after a long night, then sure, yes it's better than doing nothing at all. But that is really all I can say.

With those words, cleanse, cleanse, cleanse! And buy washcloths...


You can always trust me to give you an honest opinion and to tell you when a post was sponsored. This one wasn't and all of the products mentioned were purchased by me (for the love of skincare...).

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